Travel Tuesday - Death Valley National Park

This Travel Tuesday we'll do 180° from alpine Paradise to desert Death Valley. Hold on tight, because I have a lot to say about Death Valley...

Death Valley - Badwater Basin Salt Flats, lowest elevation in North America

Death Valley didn't become a National Park until 1994. Before that, it was a National Monument (in 1933), and before that, parts of the valley and surrounding mountains were mined for gold, silver, lead, and borax, leaving abandoned mine shafts and ghost towns when the mines eventually played out.

We decided to visit Death Valley this year during April, one of the rainiest, dreariest months in Seattle, but the very end of the comfortable winter tourist season in Death Valley. We flew into Las Vegas, NV and stayed on the Strip for an afternoon and one night. To be honest, that was about enough Las Vegas for my husband and me - we don't drink and we both figure that gambling is just a quick way to play video games and donate money to the casinos. So we just walked up and down the strip to take a look at all of the casinos, which is fun in its own way - kind of Disney-like, just with more drunk people and pornography advertisements.

We stayed at Excalibur, mostly because it was one of the more affordable hotels on the strip, and it was decent, but definitely not luxury class. It seems like they are slowly remodeling their guest rooms because the first night we were there, the room was dated and slightly dirty, but the second night (a few days later, after we got back from Death Valley) we were in the other tower and the room was newly remodeled and very nice. The casino itself was smokey, loud, and crowded, and of course had the requisite aggressive marketing people you have to dodge every time you step foot on the casino floor but the buffet was very nice.

We left early the next morning for the two hour drive into the park. We entered the park through Shoshone, CA in the south, on Badwater Road, which goes through some less visited parts of the park. It was an interesting drive and a nice introduction to the park without a lot of crowds or traffic. 

Lack of traffic also meant we could stop dead in the middle of the road when we saw this guy in the way.

Can't see him very well? Don't worry, he ran over, straight to the passenger door. I rolled down the window to snap a picture, but I was honestly worried he would just jump in to raid our lunches from the cooler.

Ha! Wildlife photography is easy, right?

Driving north on Badwater road, you eventually hit Badwater, the lowest elevation spot in the park and in North America itself. It is a hot, blinding white salt flat. We got there before noon and it was already over 95°. I guess I don't need to say to bring sunscreen and lots of water when you visit Death Valley.

Next going north is a short hike into a canyon with a natural stone bridge (aptly named Natural Bridge on the maps) And then after that in the valley, Devil's Golf Course, so named because it's apparently playing golf in hell is all in the rough...

Above, Natural Bridge. Below, Devil's Golf Course (watch your step!)

Going farther north, you'll reach a one way (going north) turn-off called Artist's Drive. This road will take you closer to mountains that have multi-colored mineral deposits, making the mountains almost look painted.

Artist Palette

Shortly after you re-join the main road, you will come to the Furnace Creek Junction, with the historic Furnace Creek Inn to the east (right), and the Furnace Creek Ranch up the road a bit to the northwest (left).

The Furnace Creek Inn is a historic four-star hotel, originally built as crew quarters for the Pacific Coast Borax  Company. The Inn has a formal restaurant, warm springs pool, and tennis courts. We stayed at the Furnace Creek Ranch up the road, which has two casual restaurants, a bar, a small museum, a pool, game courts, golf course, and horse stables and has motel type lodging or duplex cabins. We stayed in a cabin, which was small, but very comfortable, with a TV, free wifi and excellent air conditioning.

Restaurants at the Furnace Creek Ranch

We got to the ranch in the early afternoon, so we still had time to travel north a bit to see more sights. Just north of the ranch is the National Park visitor center, with rangers on hand to answer questions (and a gift shop!). Next along the road is a short roadside trail with remains of the historical borax mining and refinery that took place in the valley. Along the trail is a fabled 20 Mule Team Borax wagon train from the 1880s.

Another 12 miles north of the borax trail is a boardwalk and interpretive trail over Salt Creek, home to a type of fish found only in Death Valley. Shortly after that is an intersection, where you can head farther north or turn southwest to Stovepipe Wells. We headed west (left) and got gas and snacks in Stovepipe Wells village, which also has a motel and restaurant. Along the road to Stovepipe Wells are long views across the valley to the Panamint mountain range as well as 100 foot tall sand dunes. You can walk the few miles out to the dunes, if you don't mind sand in your boots.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

After the sand dunes, we drove back south to our cabin, ate in the 49er Cafe (very good buffalo burgers...), swam in the warm springs fed pool, and then enjoyed sitting outside in the 85° midnight weather. 

The next morning we set out back towards the north, taking the Scotty's Castle Road, the northbound route at the junction before Stovepipe Wells. This is another less traveled portion of the park. We drove north for almost 20 miles without passing another car. 

Along Scotty's Castle Road is the outlet for a 27 mile, one way, four wheel drive road through a box canyon - from outside the east side of the park, passing through a ghost town and the Armagosa Mountain range, then down through Titus Canyon into the valley. We didn't have enough time or gas to try to drive this route, but it is on our list for the next time we visit.

The road out of Titus Canyon

All the way at the north end of the park is Scotty's Castle - a 1920s vacation mansion in the foothills above Death Valley. The "castle" was never completely finished, but you can walk the grounds for free or purchase a guided tour for the interior of the mansion.

Scotty's Castle

We walked around the grounds and chose to skip the interior tour so that we would have a chance to drive a bit west to check out Ubehebe Crater, caused by a volcanic eruption 300 years ago. You can walk down into the crater, but be prepared for a hot, dusty climb out. You can also hike along the rim of the crater, which we did for a short distance.

Ubehebe Crater and obvious signs...

After the crater, we headed south, back towards Furnace Creek Inn and turned east to exit the park. Along the road out of the park you can view Zabriskie Point, with views of yellow badlands, and a short, twisty one way dirt road though 20 Mule Team Canyon, with close up views of the badlands. As well as an opportunity (for my husband at least) to test the rental Jeep's high speed off road capability. I have video of that experience, with me gasping and swearing in the background, but I think I'll leave that to the imagination...

The last thing we did before the drive back to Las Vegas was a 26 mile round trip road up to Dante's View (apparently, they just ran with the death/hell/devil theme for the majority of naming opportunities). The last few miles of this road are steep and rather hair raising, with switchbacks so tight that larger vehicles and trailers aren't allowed. The drive is paid off by the sweeping views of the whole valley, as well as refreshing 72° temperatures at 5400 foot elevation (compared to the 100° on the valley floor).

Death Valley from Dante's View point

After that it was a peaceful desert drive back into Las Vegas, where we spent another night and took a quick side trip to Hoover Dam - which I think will be its own short Travel Tuesday entry, since this is getting long.

We spent almost two whole days in Death Valley and we only saw the highlights. With a good map and a Jeep, there are hundreds of miles of backcountry roads throughout the whole park. In fact, some of the coolest sights are off the paved roads, like Leadfield ghost town along the Titus Canyon road and Racetrack Playa, where rocks mysteriously move and leave tracks over the dry lake bed, only reachable by a 27 mile long high clearance dirt road.

Racetrack Playa - next time! source

I highly recommend renting a 4x4 vehicle for a trip to Death Valley. We found a Jeep Wrangler in Las Vegas and there are also Jeep rentals at Furnace Creek in the park. Keeping track of your gas tank is also very important. There are only three gas stations in the park: Panamint Springs (on the far west entrance), Stovepipe Wells, and Furnace Creek. Gas at Stovepipe Wells was comparatively cheaper while we were there ($4.75 vs $6.00 at Furnace Creek), so it pays to top of your gas tank outside the park and keep an eye on your gas gauge, especially since cell coverage is limited to areas around the hotels.

Heat is also a concern in Death Valley. We went there right at the end of the winter tourist season, and temperatures were starting to get slightly uncomfortable, over 105° at mid-afternoon. Summer visits are unwise, unless you zip through the park and never leave your air conditioned car.

I think I might be planning another trip to Death Valley in the coming years. It is a good way to dry out and heat up away from the wet, chilly Seattle winters.

As always, the National Park website is a great place to find maps, information about lodging, things to see and current conditions in the park.

Paradise is on a mountain... Really!

I just had to share how incredibly beautiful Mount Rainier is in the winter time. As I mentioned in my Travel Tuesday post on Mount Rainier, it's kind of hit or miss on what sort of weather you will get when you visit in the winter. But after Christmas, we watched the weather report like a hawk and found a day that was forecasted to be sunny and clear.

And it was worth it!

We snowshoed around 2.5 miles and I think my hips still hurt because of it, but like I said... worth it.

Travel Tuesday - Mount Rainier National Park

Travel is one of my great loves. I plan dream vacations in my spare time (down to details like finding out bus routes and taxi company prices... but that is probably a touch of OCD along with a love of travel...) Unfortunately, sometimes life gets in the way of being able to jet off to exotic locations, but I have still been lucky enough to visit some amazing locations. I thought I would start sharing some of my past (and current, whenever I get to go visit someplace) destinations and pictures here.

I think it is fitting for my favorite place here in Washington to be featured in my first Travel Tuesday post - Mount Rainier National Park. The national park was established in 1899 as the fifth national park in the country. The park surrounds Mount Rainier, one of the tallest mountains in the lower 48 states.

Mount Rainier, from the road to Paradise

Mount Rainier NP has three major visitor's centers (and tons of wide open backcountry spaces for those who want to get away from people) 

• Longmire, open all year at a lower elevation. Longmire has the National Park Inn, the only lodging open year round, as well as a general store, restaurant, museums, and gift shop. There are some good low elevation hiking trails that start at Longmire.

Logging exhibit at Longmire

• Paradise, the most visited area of the park (and very well named!). Paradise is at around 5,000 feet in elevation and has amazing wildflower fields in the summer and up to 55 feet of snow in the winter.  There are tons of trails in the Paradise area, from paved, easy walkways to strenuous, mostly uphill treks. Paradise is also where the majority of mountain climbers start their trek up the mountain. You will often see full equipped climbers trudging uphill alongside the flip-flop clad tourists.Paradise has a brand new visitor center with a gift shop, museum, and food court and also has the historic Paradise Inn, open in the summer, with lodging and a restaurant.

Paradise wildflower fields in summer

• Sunrise is on the east side of the mountain, and as it's name suggests, is a great place to see the sun rise on the mountain. Sunrise is at a higher elevation and at the end of a very twisty road, so it is only open in the summer time after the park service can plow the roads. No lodging at Sunrise, but there is a nice gift shop and food court as well as great hiking opportunities.

Mount Rainier from the Burrough's Mountain trail in the Sunrise area

We make a trip to Mount Rainier at least once a year, and every time we go there is something different. Winter visits to Paradise are a snow-lover's dream, but weather conditions are highly variable and often the weather is too dangerous to visit any elevations higher than Longmire.

Paradise in January - That's me, and somewhere behind me was Mount Rainier. About 15 minutes after this picture, park rangers suggested that we should go back to the visitor's center because the weather conditions were too dangerous.

When the weather does cooperate, Paradise in winter has miles of snowshoeing trails, opportunities for back country skiing, and a tube sliding hill near the parking lot.

That's more like it! Paradise in January.

Summer is the most crowded season at Mount Rainier, and for good reason! During the short summer temperatures climb, the snowpack melts, and wild flowers bloom like crazy.

Mount Rainier in August, peak wild flower time.

Of course, like winter, summer can also be unpredictable, depending on how the weather has been going... We have visited Mount Rainier in late July and early August a few years in a row, and one year we get beautiful wildflowers, but the next we get 5 feet of slushy snow still on the ground. Every year is different.

Paradise in July - high snow levels in the winter delayed the melt for over a month. We were hiking on over 5 feet of snow here.

Fall colors in the park can often be quite beautiful as well, as long as you time it right (after the wild flowers and before the snow flies).

Fall color at Paradise

Mount Rainier NP is less than a two hour drive from Seattle. The National Park website is a great place to find information about things to see and current conditions in the park. Mount Rainier is a sight everybody should see at least once!

Good one, NASA!

I just can't get enough of NASA's new Mars rover, Curiosity. I follow it on Twitter (@MarsCuriosity - probably the funniest robot you can follow on Twitter...) and get excited every time NASA posts a new photo on Facebook. Just the idea that we managed to land an SUV size robot on a completely different planet, more than 100 million miles away - and it's beaming back pictures (from a different planet!) - it totally blows my mind. 

NASA is now getting the first full resolution images from Curiosity. Here's a photo of the surrounding landscape...

Photo from NASA MSL Mission website

And here's a picture of my latest vacation to Death Valley...

Hmm... I can hear the rustling of conspiracy theorists putting on their tinfoil hats... 

NASA has a sense of humor though, and even mentioned the resemblance at their press conference. Chief Scientist John Grotzinger even said, "You would really be forgiven for thinking that NASA was trying to pull a fast one on you, and we actually put a rover out in the Mojave Desert and took a picture."

Sure NASA, everybody knows you can just re-use the sound-stage from the "moon landing" anyway...

Here's the NBCNews.com article on the Mojave/Mars resemblance. And here is NASA's awesome website for the MSL Curiosity.

And now a backyard interlude...

We have scores of these guys dive-bombing each other (and sometimes us!) all around the house - both the orange Rufous variety and the green Anna's. I can't get enough of watching hummingbirds!

I can't really leave this little guy out, either. He looks like he is dancing!

And the most graceful of backyard birds...

No? Well, they do make me breakfast*...


*some assembly required

Seattle...

No real reason for this... and actually from earlier this summer. I just managed to find the memory card these pictures were on. From out latest jaunt into the big city to do the tourist thing with an out of town guest - harbor cruise, Pike Place Market, the Needle... the works! It was actually the first time I had been up in the Space Needle at night, though. I think I'm just posting them for those rainy winter (spring, fall... hell, summer...) days when I need to remind myself why I like Seattle.

These are actually from my phone. Not too bad.

From the harbor cruise. Mount Rainier was even hazily visible off to the south.

Space Needle at dusk. (I almost said twilight and tried to make a joke, but I restrained myself. You're welcome.)

Can you see Mount Rainier?

And a bonus - right outside our front door earlier this spring.

I'll be back to cling to these images in February...

My high tech photography studio - or not... Create your own DIY photography lightbox

Here's a secret - I'm a little bit... (how should I put this...)... thrifty. That's a nice way to word it. Unless it's electronics or pretty shiny things to make jewelry out of, I try to save my pennies as much as possible. So when it comes to photographing my jewelry for my shop, I had to get creative.

Photographing jewelry is a little tricky. It can't be too sunny or all you get from your photo is flashes and shine. But taking pictures indoors with either incandescent or fluorescent light bulbs gives you funny colored light and lots of shadows. Professional photographers use high powered spot lights and light reflectors to get even light and artistic shadows.

I'm not a professional photographer... and I'm cheap thrifty. Even portable tabletop lightboxes cost upwards of $50 and then you have to buy the right lighting. I would rather spend that money on beads, so I cobbled together my own DIY lightbox.

My high tech photography studio.

Supplies for my homemade DIY lightbox: cardboard box (we just moved, so we had a bunch of these still floating around. If I made another one, I would use a slightly less beat up box.), white tissue paper, white scrapbook paper (12x12 fit the bottom and back of my small box almost perfectly).

Cost: practically free! After people move, most of them are eager to get the boxes out of their garages so if you know the right people, the box is free (or less than $2 at Home Depot or Lowe's). You can get white tissue paper for a dollar, or if you are me, you have it lying around from Christmas wrapping.

The instructions for the box are simple. Turn the box on its side, cut a rectangular hole out of the left side, right side, and top with a box cutter, leaving around a 1 inch border around each side. I left the flaps alone so I could use them direct light at the front of the box. Then just tape the white tissue paper over each hole. It doesn't have to be overly neat. Then use the white (or any colored paper) as a backdrop. And done!

Now that the monsoon season here in Seattle seems to be lessening, I take my box outside on my south facing deck on sunny days. I just angle the box so that the item inside gets indirect light with fewer shadows and no additional light sources are needed.

On rainy days, I set up on my dining room table and just drag a whole bunch of lamps over to shine on the sides and top of the box. It is a little harder to get good color with the indoor method but with a little tweaking in photo software, the results aren't too bad.

You don't even need a high tech camera to get decent photos with this lightbox. I have a DSLR because I like to take photos of other things, but point-and-shoot cameras have great macro/close-up features and most have white balance settings as well. I have even gotten decent pictures from steadying my iPhone on the table in front of the box.

So there it is - my high tech DIY cardboard box photography lightbox. There are probably other ways to take good pictures of small objects, but this seems to be the easiest, cheapest way for me to get good photographs of my jewelry.

This is before I cropped and tweaked the white balance in my photo editing software. Not too bad!

(The bracelet in the photo above is available for sale in my Etsy shop: Braided Copper Bangle Bracelet
Or my storefront: Miscellanea Etcetera on Etsy)